Food
Nostalgia
“No one
who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the
kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and
menus of cooks present, and the wisdom of cookbook writers.”
Laurie
Colwin
Beginning this weekend,
our thoughts turn to food—at least, mine do. And, it's impossible
not to wax nostalgic during the holidays. We remember dishes cooked
by our mothers and grandmothers, in-laws and out-laws. We paw through
our recipe boxes for scraps of paper, yellowed and soiled from age
and use. Well, maybe you just go to the Food Network's website and
look for recipes, but I reach into the recipe box.
My mother and
grandmother, aunts and great aunts were great cooks. But they were
also always stretched for time, so they were simple cooks—no Joy of
Cooking recipes here. Just good food. They didn't pay a whole lot of
attention to calories, or fat and sugar content, but none of them
were overweight. Also, they often didn't put amounts on their
recipes—just assumed any cook would know how much. Sometimes the
recipe would say, “until it looks right.” For instance, here's my
mother's recipe for Turkey Dressing:
Cornbread-crumbled
add white
bread-crumbled
2 or 3 boiled
eggs-chopped
celery
onion
giblets with
cooking stock, or chicken broth
1 or 2 Tbsp.
Sage
Mix to
consistency of cornbread batter
Bake at 350
Bare bones. No frills. So
yummy. Never out of a bag, or box. And here's her simple apple bread
pudding:
5 or 6 apples Peel &
slice apples, place in casserole dish.
3 slices of bread Cut
bread into strips, lay over apples.
1 ½ cups sugar Melt
butter, add sugar and beaten egg.
1 stick of butter Pour
over bread. Bake 45min at 350.
1 egg
For me, Thanksgiving,
more than Christmas, is a time for remembering. For casting back in
time through the vehicle of food to great meals and the people who,
without actually instructing me, taught me how to cook. When I taste
cornbread dressing now, the basis for comparison is always my
mother's. I think of her and her meticulous chopping of the celery
and onion. If my chopping didn't meet her standards, she re-chopped
them.
Over the next few days, I
will be sharing some old family recipes. I hope that while you are
preparing your Thanksgiving repast, you will remember the cooks in
your own family. Speak of them, call their names.
This is how we honor our ancestors, and express gratitude for their
gifts to us. Our love and appreciation is then incorporated into the
food we make and passed along to the next generation.
In the Spirit,
Jane
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